New Orleans and its people know adversity, and the local food culture serves up solace.
Tom Fitzmorris's Hungry Town:
A Culinary History of New Orleans, the City Where Food Is Almost Everything
by Tom Fitzmorris
$24.95 List Price
My first visit to New Orleans didn't happen until 2002, in my early thirties, shamefully late in life for someone who likes to eat as much as I do. What I found when I arrived, at least culinarily speaking, did not disappoint: the roast-beef and gravy po'boys on Magazine Street, the oysters as big as my palm at the Acme Oyster Bar, the crabmeat-covered everything at Galatoire's. I also discovered something else—New Orleans is in many ways a small town, albeit one that acts like a metropolis during Jazz Fest and Mardi Gras. After a few days there, I began seeing the same faces over and over again, and not just in the lobby of my French Quarter hotel.
Tom Fitzmorris has been a prominent eater around New Orleans for some thirty years, yet the city for him has retained a similar provincial quality. In his new book,
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